Thread: TR8 Fuel Tank Help

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  1. #1 TR8 Fuel Tank Help 
    Little Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    13
    I have a 1980 TR8 (carbs) that has been in storage since 1987. I am trying to get it started and am still dealing with getting fuel to the carbs. The car has an external pump installed on it. There is no fuel coming out of the tank. I blew air inside the tank and it improved a little and eventually clogged again. I opened up the fuel tank and removed the original fuel pump and noticed the fuel line from the to the old internal pump was broken. Thus, the sock filter was not being used. There is a lot of crud in the tank that I am trying to remove. I was wondering if I can leave the line inside the tank open without a filter. I did put a filter between the tank and the new external pump.

    Any help is appreciated.
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  2. #2  
    I know I can speak for many TR8 owners and Woodys about gas tanks in TR8s & TR7s since Woody loved to leave removing and installing them to me when I worked for him years ago.......If you leave the tank in place and try to just filter the crud out it is a losing battle. I don't think you want to be stranded on the side of the road with a clogged filter. I would bite the bullet and pull the tank, replace the pump with with a new stock unit that comes with the new sock filter and get the tank treated. It is a pain to do butt if your going to keep the car and drive it often this is the only correct fix. Woody has all of the pump parts. Oh how I do not miss changing gas tanks..........
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  3. #3  
    Little Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    13
    I am dreading removing the tank. Once I take off the supports, does it slide out or does something have to be removed to get it out?
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  4. #4  
    To get the tank out you need to do the following:
    -Put the back end of the car up on jack stands just infront of the lower control arms
    -Take the rims off
    -Remove the drive shaft
    -Remove one end of the rubber flex hose for the rear brakes
    -Remove the e-brake cable at the pull handle from the under side of the tranny tunnel
    -Put a jack under the differntial
    -Remove the bottom connections for the shocks at the rear end
    -Lower the rear so you can remove the springs
    -Remove the bolts for the upper and lower control arms at the body connections
    -Pull the rear end out
    -Remove the exhaust pipes
    Now for the real fun
    -drain the tank either by jumping the oil pressure swith plug on the oil pump/front cover passenger's side if you have a convertable. This is done with a wire with a male spade on each end jumping the two parallel female connectors on the oil pump pressure switch. Then remove the fuel hose from the tank and put a longer hose that reaches down to a gas can. You will need to be fast since as soon as you pull the old hose off gas will start to come out. There is a cheater way and that is to have a pipe on the end of a long hose so all you have to do is put a set of vise grips on the fuel hose and crimp the hose, remove the hose from the steel fuel line on the body of the car and put the long hose with tube/pipe on the end with a hose clamp and take the vise grips off. Gas will start to come out. If not turn on the ignition and pump the gas out. Thats why you would jump the oil pressure switch as previously mentioned.
    -With the gas almost all out (you never get all of it out but maybe 1 to 2 gallons will be left). Put a bolt on the end of the hose and a clamp when there is no more gas coming out of the hose.
    -Take off the black cover found inside the trunk just below the gas cap.
    -Look inside and you will see the fuel filler hose and a small 1/2-inch vent hose with a plastic filter.
    -Remove the filter hose from the tank
    -loosen and slide up the filler neck the clamp for the filler hose at the tank
    -Go back under the car and remove the wires for the fuel pump and tank sender. Mark them or take a picture so they go back on right.
    -Use an impact or a 1/2-inch drive ratchet and remove the nuts for the tank straps. You only need to remove the rear ones.
    Becareful you do not twist the straps. Put some form of rust lubrucant on all the botls and nuts you will be working on as mentioned in these steps
    -You might have to put a set of vise grips on the stud for the straps that can be accessed inside the trunk if the hole thing spins and the straps start to twist. They are the two on the rear bulkhead.
    -Once removed with you holding the tank up bend the straps forward and out of the way.
    -Drop the tank towards the ground at an angle, downward tilt on the driver's side.
    -Wiggle the tank so the filler neck and hose slide out of the tank and it will drop on your chest.
    From here you can remove the pump and fuel gauge sender and see how bad the tanks is on the inside.
    A bit of advice when you refit the tanks replace the rubber hoses, check the rear brake hose, lubricate the ebrake cable, clean all the bolts and get some lubricant on them. Disconnect the battery after you pump the gas out or if you do need to. Fumes and batteries are not a good combination! To reinstall work you way backwards of the steps above. Anyone else have any comments?
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  5. #5  
    Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    297
    Exellent and very complete instructions and I agree that removal & cleaning is the only way to go. Only thing I have to add is be sure to replace the flat gaskets where the sending unit & pump go into the tank. My tank was in exellent condition with only surface rust on the outside so I sandblasted it, epoxy primed & painted it. I decided to pull the units out as it had been sitting. Everything looked perfect including the inside of the tank. The two gaskets looked fine also. After reassembly and putting gas in, I had a drip from the sending unit. :cry: Luckily it was only from the sending unit & I was able to change the gasket without dropping the tank again.
    Moss has the gaskets for a buck a piece. Actually they call it a seal part # 293-410. Woody may have them on hand also and I believe he has tanks on an exchange basis.
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  6. #6  
    I forgot to add when the tank is ready to drop out you will need both hands........and knees! I would make sure you have some good blankets for under your back. I think Woody still has my pillow for sleeping under the cars....don't you?
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  7. #7  
    No more pillow Mike, but I still can tell everybody how you scream on Road Tests. As for the tank I have them in stock and all the fuel pump items also. Have Fun

    Thanks
    Woody
    TheWedgeshop.com
    The Wedge Shop
    Fast.British.Reliable.
    www.thewedgeshop.com
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  8. #8  
    Little Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    13
    Thanks everyone for your help. I will be taking the tank out. Thanks again
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  9. #9  
    Woody I know you mean SCREEEAAAAMMMMMMMMM
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  10. #10  
    Ole Boy
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Mt Pleasant SC
    Posts
    795
    Woody. Add that to the "how to " section.
    Don

    "Stick a Wedge In It"
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