Thread: Don't try this at home!

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  1. #1 Don't try this at home! 
    Young Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    90
    Yesterday, I was setting the lifter pre-load on the Rover V8 in my
    Triumph TR8. The engine has adjustable pushrods and I was using
    bent wire gauges under the lifter snap rings to measure the pre-load,
    shooting for 30 thousandths cold. I decide it will be easier if I
    disassemble the wire gauge tool to use the individual wires. I set-up
    my magnetic dish so nothing will fall in the engine but I still managed
    to drop one of the wires inside the engine. It sounded like it fell on
    top of the windage tray. I tried fishing a magnet around but the cam
    and lifters were in the way so I pulled the engine all back apart
    but still couldn't find it. I poured 5 quarts of oil through it trying
    to flush it out. No such luck. Got out the cherry picker and hooked
    up a chain so I could pull the motor mount bolts out and drop the pan.
    Found it. It had dropped on top of the oil pan baffle. No way I
    could have fished it out the drain plug hole. Bugger! In retrospect,
    duct tape over the cam windows would have kept this from happening.
    Now I'm going to have to clean off the cam, lifters and timing chain
    and re-lube before re-install. Probably should give the oil pan another
    coat of paint before putting it back on.

    Dan Jones
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  2. #2  
    Young Brit
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    Feb 2012
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    Dang, sorry about that man.
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  3. #3  
    Little Brit
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    Feb 2012
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    Hi Dan,
    I fitted a set of Edelbrock valve covers to my 4.6, to do this you have to fit adaptor plates. I managed to drop one of the countersunk screws down into the lifter valley :shock: :cry: i managed to pick up with a magnic only to drop it at the last moment :shock: :roll: Ended up removing the manifold to get it back, lucky it didnt fall into the sump.



    If you look you can make out the screw, sorry poor quality of picture but hands shaking like a mad man!!!

    Once fitted looked like this



    Cheers John
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  4. #4  
    Brit
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    Feb 2012
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    Actually, you can set the preload by simply counting turns after zero lash is established. Since the pushrods are so many threads per inch, this is plenty enough accurate. Sorry, but I forget the numbers. Perhaps someone else can help me out with the details.
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  5. #5  
    Young Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    > Actually, you can set the preload by simply counting turns after zero lash is
    > established.

    Unfortunately that won't work in this application. The pushrods are too long
    to get zero lash, at least on the exhaust lobes. I'm not sure if that is
    a characteristic of this particular Erson cam which has different intake and
    exhaust lobes but I would think the base circle is the same. More likely,
    the exhaust valves are sunk in the head to a different depth compared to the
    intakes. The previous owner had some head work done (guides replaced) so
    there was probably a valve job in its past. A straight edge across the valves
    should tell me if that's the case or not.

    > Since the pushrods are so many threads per inch, this is plenty enough
    > accurate.

    My thread pitch gauge says the threads are some sort of extra fine. I've
    got the pitch number but don't have it handy. The pushrods turned out to
    be too long to get 0.030" pre-load with this cam and lifters. My options
    are to shim the rocker stands or go with shorter pushrods. I happened to
    have another motor that was never fired that had shorter adjustable pushrods
    and they are in the engine now.

    I was planning on getting the engine back together this weekend for our
    annual British car show the next weekend but the boss just came by and
    said I have to be on a plane to Japan Saturday morning.

    Dan Jones
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  6. #6  
    Brit
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    Feb 2012
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    297
    FWIW, Got mine from Smith Brothers Pushrods in Oregon. They will make them any length needed with whatever ends. I needed sort of an off size since the block was decked 50 thou.
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