Thread: Any tips on replacing convertible top

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  1. #1 Any tips on replacing convertible top 
    Little Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Pasadena, MD
    Posts
    15
    My convertible top is finally failing, windows are brown, cannot see through them, and the inside of the vinyl is turning to powder. I have purchased a canvas double duck top from Rimmer Bros. Does anyone have tips/instructions on replacing the top. I believe the hardest part is the correct attachment to the header rail. I have not taken the old one off yet but a quick look reveals some adhesive must be used? Are they stapled like some American tops are? Any info appreciated, I really want to do this myself.....

    Cheers, Andy
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  2. #2  
    The front/header is glued on the top side and then wrapped over the edge and held in place with a header rail that is rivited. The rear just has a slide in and bolt on rail to the body with snaps thru the top into the rail. Centering the top and getting a good pull to make sure it is taunt but not too tight or too loose will cause issues down the road. I am sure someone can find you some instruction or more advice. Woody & I did them all the time and well we got better as time went on so just take your time!
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  3. #3 TR7-TR8 Convertible 
    Little Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    30
    I replaced the convertible cover on my Sisters TR7 several months ago.
    It took about 3 days to do including several trips to get the additional materials.



    My main tip is to mount the cover at the rear and then mark a center line on the front of the cover and also mark how far you are going to pull the cover forward for suitable tension.

    Apply glue to the cover at the front and apply glue to the front of the cover frame.
    Apply the cover to the frame and then close the roof and check the tension in the cover, if it is good then let the glue dry before finishing off this area, if the tension is not right open the roof and re adjust the poison of the cover and then re-close.


    Here are some photos of the major points along the way.
    If you take your time you should get a good result.

    Good luck.

    http://www.nitrodude.com.au/cpg143/thumbnails.php?album=211


    I have added some comments to the images on the web photos I hope that helps.
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  4. #4  
    Little Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Pasadena, MD
    Posts
    15
    geebee, thanks for the link to your web site. I apologise for not replying earlier, I had not checked in on the forum for a few weeks. I have not attempted the top replacement yet, but hopefully will in the next couple of months. I will let you know how it went! Interesting pictures on your site, you have obviously done a lot of tinkering with your TR8.

    Cheers

    Andy
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  5. #5  
    Spitfire
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    6
    Boy, is THIS "on time". I am "resurrecting" my Wedge 8. The old top is now laying on the flor next to the new top.

    One thing I did that may help. My top came with two new web straps. Before I cut off the old ones, I measure the webs from the header to first hoop, the first to the second, and so on. This way I can space each part properly when I rivet the caps back over the new webs.

    BTW, what is the best glue to use?
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  6. #6  
    I like using contact cement that you would brush on. Some like 3M trim adhesive too.
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  7. #7  
    Spitfire
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by Wedge-Works1
    I like using contact cement that you would brush on. Some like 3M trim adhesive too.
    Does that stuff allow a second chance?

    unrelated side note - tell Woody that the Yellow coupe I bought 7-8 years ago has found a new home in St. Louis and might be seen at Maxton speed trails.
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  8. #8  
    Young Brit
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    80
    I also need to buy a new top, are the Robbins brand ones good quality?
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  9. #9  
    Spitfire
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    6
    I bought some 3M heavy duty spray adhesive ($19 !!!) and it is okay, but not great. So far I replaced the webs and installed the long plate that holds the back of the top to the rear deck. Sure seems helpful to unzip the window during the install. Right now it is in the 60's in the KC area. The top is quite tight at the snaps, so I may have to either warm up the garage to soften the top, or relocate new snaps. Sure wish I could find some specific instructions for the installation.
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  10. #10  
    Spitfire
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    6
    Well, it was not as bad as I thought, especially for a first EVER rag top replacement. I did a lot of measurements before finding a little notch cut in the center of the leading edge of the top. The first time I glued down the front there were a few minor issues that were resolved by pulling it back up a 1/3 at a time and re-gluing them. Figured out what a few tabs were for, and there were small holes already in to front corner spots that matched up with holes in the frame *very close to the Torx screws that hold the header to the frame. Clearly the last top was not installed properly as now that all the little fiddly things are glued, riveted, and otherwise secured, the top is very tight and the forward corners of the top, the A pillars, and wing window frames all come together a LOT better. I live about 25 minutes from Victoria British, so I will load the 8 on my trailer and take it there to match up some small finishing pieces that are missing. Hopefully they will have all that as well as rear shelf and truck panels. Otherwise, Rimmers.

    disclaimer - I don't want to do THAT again !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :roll:
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